Beginner Looking for Opinions on Gear

Hello all,

I am seeking advice on tree climbing gear. I plan on learning to use a DdRT system to ascend and descend using a friction knot and tending pully. I would like to keep my setup safe and simple. I have a few questions:

1) What length of rope should I purchase if I plan on climbing trees no higher than 100 feet?

2) What is a reputable tree climbing rope that is spliced on the ends? (Attachable to carabiners.)

3) (More of technique advice than gear.) Once I have ascended to my final point where I will begin my descent, how will I be able to retrieve my cambium saver hung at the top of the tree from the ground?

4) Are there adjustable lanyard options available? (I understand remaining in a loose lanyard may increase likelihood of a fall.)

5) What lanyards do you recommend? (Homemade or bought, length.)

I appreciate any help, looking forward to enjoying the canopy with you all.

bniebla735 wrote: Hello all,

I am seeking advice on tree climbing gear. I plan on learning to use a DdRT system to ascend and descend using a friction knot and tending pully. I would like to keep my setup safe and simple. I have a few questions:

1) What length of rope should I purchase if I plan on climbing trees no higher than 100 feet?

2) What is a reputable tree climbing rope that is spliced on the ends? (Attachable to carabiners.)

3) (More of technique advice than gear.) Once I have ascended to my final point where I will begin my descent, how will I be able to retrieve my cambium saver hung at the top of the tree from the ground?

4) Are there adjustable lanyard options available? (I understand remaining in a loose lanyard may increase likelihood of a fall.)

5) What lanyards do you recommend? (Homemade or bought, length.)

I appreciate any help, looking forward to enjoying the canopy with you all.

The answers to your questions are potentially as deep as the ocean is wide. There is a huge range of technique and gear preferences out there in the tree climbing world. Have you had the chance to view Treeman's climbing basics DVD, that will help alot.

I recommend a 150' rope, it gives you the most options. 120' is next but in a 100' tree it will require more technical ability to make up for the shorter length.

For every rope recommended, someone else will say "terrible choice" So many variables. If you plan on carrying gear on your back to get to trees then you might want a rope that is lighter per foot than another rope type. TCI instructors often recommend 1/2" New England Ropes Safety Blue. Nice solid 16-strand rope, great for Blake's Hitch climbing, it is heavy per foot. Looking at lighter and thinner 24-strand ropes, the following are excellent, each with specific characteristics: NE Ropes Fly (or Dragonfly), Sterling Scion, NE Ropes Tachyon, Yale Bandit or Blaze, any of the Yale 11.7mm 24-strand double braids like Sumac, Aztec, Calamine, Poison Ivy etc. they're color versions of the same construction.

I would caution against splicing both ends, start with a spliced or sewn eye (I prefer a sewn eye) on one end only. I think you need a strong reason to have both ends spliced. Several reasons not to have eyes on both ends. The strongest is that you can't slide a Dan House style cambium saver on to the rope if there's not a "free" end to the rope. The Dan House saver is the most intuitive and easy-to-use cambium saver on the planet. Sherrill Tree sells the House saver as "The Caterpillar".

Here's a Dan House cambium protector in use with 11.6mm NE Ropes Tachyon:



To remove a Dan House saver (I call it a "pipe") from a tree you simply tie an overhand knot on the end of your rope and pull. But... it is wiser, especially if your pipe is set high in a tree, to tie the overhand knot and then attach a throwline to the end of the rope with the overhand knot above it, then lower your rope with the throwline. A pipe on the end of your rope can get hung up very easily if the rope end flies free out of the tree, lowering the rope with a throwline is smarter and safer.

FYI you can create a mid-line or "other end of your rope" lanyard using the tail of your main climbing rope, see Treeman's climbing basics DVD. Pre-made lanyards are expensive and generally oriented towards professional tree workers. For rec climbing I recommend building a simple adjustable lanyard. Think of it as a short rope second climbing system.
-AJ

Thanks moss! Found your advice very helpful. I am looking into 150 ft, 1/2" rope since I do not plan on trekking too deep into the woods and like the "easier to grip" advantage. I see you recommend New England Ropes Safety Blue 16 strand. My final question is if this New England rope is spliced at one end. I really appreciate your informative and swift reply!

bniebla735 wrote: Thanks moss! Found your advice very helpful. I am looking into 150 ft, 1/2" rope since I do not plan on trekking too deep into the woods and like the "easier to grip" advantage. I see you recommend New England Ropes Safety Blue 16 strand. My final question is if this New England rope is spliced at one end. I really appreciate your informative and swift reply!

Splices are typically added by arborist gear retailers at your request, so yes you can order Safety Blue with a traditional spliced eye or a sewn eye:

NE Ropes Safety Blue spliced eye options at Treestuff
-AJ

Excellent! Your advice is invaluable to clearing up my confusion on DdRT. Thanks again moss!

You're welcome! If you haven't found these yet...

Leather and Dan House rope sleeves

You'll need the 3/4" ID sleeve for 1/2" rope. I noticed they only offer it in 30", that's a bit long, you can undo the tape, unscrew the end ferrule and cut the pipe to whatever length you want, screw the end cap/ferrule back on, re-tape it.
-AJ