Alplantz,
Before we begin let's be clear that the questions you pose are technical and as such in-depth knowledge and most importantly practice. SO with the below solutions please go low and slow (as in a few feet off the ground) and progress from there. Have firm grasp of the intricacies involved before working, cutting or rigging at height.
My first recommendation is an adjustable two ring friction saver. This will allow you to easily move from regular tie in point to a cinching type one.
Next would be a pulley saver or rope guide. The pulley saver is pictured and can be manufactured at home. Be forewarned: homemade versions require some tweaking for reliable retrieval!
Last suggestion would be as stated in the post before mine. However, loop the tail, or fall of your line, below you climbing hitch, through a carabiner as pictured. When lowering use a break hand on the tail to help absorb some of the friction. This loop through the tail of the running bowline is also vital for retrieval
Here it is pictured with a GriGri as opposed to a hitch. Think RADS.
What is important to understand about this system is that the friction hitch will be absorbing twice the weight as it would in a doubled rope system. Therefore, the hitch will become touchy and prone to binding and/or sudden release. My preferred method is this, but I use a HMS carabiner and tie a munter hitch in the top carabiner, then use a brake hand as described.
Of course you could always use a hitch hiker, rope wrench or mechanical device rated for stationary line work such as the Petzl rig or I'D.
Hope it helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions.
Tony