Friction Savers?

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21 years 1 month ago - 21 years 1 month ago #122863 by Tear
Friction Savers? was created by Tear
Ok. I understand how sleeve-type friction savers are placed (slip knot under them that's pulled out after placement). What I don't get is how the leather/webbing straps with rings on the end can be remotely placed. I just can't figure it out. Can anyone give me a real easy to understand description of this process?

Thanks a lot,
Joshua

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21 years 1 month ago - 21 years 1 month ago #122865 by icabod
Replied by icabod on topic Placing CS
Hopefully this will help. Not my photos (thanks treeclimbing.it!)

1. Thread one ring of the CS with throwline and set throwline at TIP.
2. Thread other ring and haul up to TIP

3. When Bag reaches TIP yank HARD!

4. Assuming bag and ring pass over TIP allow bag to return to ground, and tow climbing line into place.

5. ENJOY!

Climb Safe!

Cam "Icabod" Taylor

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21 years 1 month ago - 21 years 1 month ago #122866 by Tear
Replied by Tear on topic Friction Savers?
Perfect. The photos made it so easy to overstand. Thanks for the response.

Josh

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21 years 1 month ago - 21 years 1 month ago #122884 by josh123
Replied by josh123 on topic Placement of Friction Saver
Make sure you put the throwbag end of the throw line at the small ring of the friction saver. You may need to clip a biner onto the ring of the bag to keep the ring from getting partially pulled into the small ring of the friction saver. If that happens the FS will pull over the limb but the bag won't return to the ground, which is frustrating as h*ll. I made my own friction savers with the following components:
- (1) oval mallion rapid screw link from New Tribe (this is the small ring of the FS)
- (1) Petzl William Ball carabiner (this is the large ring of the FS)
-1 sewn runner from Blue Water rated at 22kN (make sure you buy a rated sling. Blue Water makes the spectra slings which are very strong and very thin and compact) Get one that is 36"-48" long so that you have enough length to get it around some sizable limbs.
-(1) length of tubular webbing long enough to cover the sewn runner when it is laid flat lengthwise. Cut the tubular webbing so that you get 3-4" of the sewn runner sticking out of each end of the webbing. The webbing is purely to protect the sewn runner from wear. When you fold the sewn runner to insert it into the webbing, make sure the overlapped ends of the runner are up inside the webbing. You may need to thread the tubing with a coat hanger in order to pull the runner through.
I also added some of those tiny rubber bands that you find on herbs/scallions in the grocery store around the sewn runner. This helps to keep the screw link and biner in one place so they can't flop around. Also note that you can use any good locking biner for the large ring of the FS. I used the William Ball biner because it has a very large opening for the figure-8 knot on the climbing line to fit through when pulling the FS down when you're done climbing. Remember to tie a throwline onto the large ring of the FS before descening so that you can control the fall of the FS out of the tree. And remember to pull your rope with the figure-8 knot through the large ring first! If you mess that up your nice FS will be stuck in the tree until you get back up there to retrieve it. I'll post a picture of my FS as described above soon...

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