Carabiners

I've heard it said that carabiners used between the delta and the figure eight on a bight should be placed down and out. I think that means the hinge is up so the screw lock will stay down by gravity. I only use auto locking biners for life safety. Does the down and out rule apply since gravity on the screw lock doesn't play into this? Would down and out apply to auto locks as well and which way is down and out for autolocking biners?

Since I often have 2 or more biners attached to my midpoint connection I always make sure the gates are opposed. I use tripple action grenade gate biners, but those gates banging against each other is just an accident waiting to happen.

As far as screwgates are concerned, I WONT use them. I used to do high rise work; and was kicking over a wall, when I put my weight on the work line the life safety line rubbed the screw lock open and the gate bumped against my wall hook. One "snap" and a short fall on my lanyard (I was actually hanging on to the wall hook, pulled a bunch of muscles and almost dislocated my shoulder) later and my screwgate biners got downgraded to material handling equipment.

Climb Safe!

Good post Dana, this is great safety information.

Thanks, Icabod.

Rescueman- Don't confuse the gal! I don't think she was talking about the figure 8 rappell device....I think she was talking about the figure 8 on a bight knot.


I use the petzls with the little green button. I am not concerned about if it opens up or opens down. I do always want to have the gate on the outside, though. I find it easier to open when the gate is on the outside. More importantly, if there is an emergency, I want the gate to the outside in case someone unfamiliar with the carabiner has to open it. With the gate out, it might be easier for them to see it and figure it out!

love
nick

I hate to burst your bubble because from some of the comments I received some of you must have thought Dana was some hapless, benighted, empty-headed damsel in distress who doesn't know a figure eight on a bight from a figure eight rappel device. Sorry, I'm a 53 year old guy. I'm happily married to a gal (20 some years). I was an eagle scout, a hard rock miner, a yacht carpenter, general contractor and now I work as a building inspector. My hobies include ornamental iron work, tree climbing, fishing and wood work. I guess it's true what say about giving a tree climber enough rope. And by the way because I received conflicting answers I probably will continue to set the carabiner with the hinge down because it's easier to attach it to my eight on a bight.

CAn I get change for a nickle, I only have two cents to offer

My preference is to have the gates on the inside of my gear setup. That keeps them somewhat protected from bumps. I'd rather have the spine of the biner get a bump than the gate.

When I was taught to climb thirty years ago I was told to clip my lanyard snap in and look at it not just hear it. This is in the day of single action snaps. Seems to me that it makes good sense now even with auto lockers.

Tom

Originally posted by Tom Dunlap
...look at it not just hear it.
... Seems to me that it makes good sense now even with auto lockers.

I second that! I was doing some minor trimming last weekend, and I consistently had to manually assist one of my William Ball Lock biners to get it to close all the way. Don't know if I had some sawdust in it or something, but it certainly made me pay attention to it more.

Does anyone lubricate their biners? I've heard about using graphite, but haven't ever tried it.

Graphite in small doses is fine. If its used too much it can get caked up. There are many fine aerosal lubes that work too. WD40 is a good generic lube. Gun lubes are nice because they don't leave any residue. Get one of the tiny spray bottles of WD40 and keep it with yout gear. Another option is to get a small flip top plastic container and put in some lube. It only takes a drop or two per biner.

Tom

Silicone spray lube.

ZERO dust sticking, nothing like bark or anything will stick to it.