I have found a few articles explaining how to tie an friction hitch called the Distel. Has anyone here used that type knot before. How does it compare to the Blake's? Most importantly can it be used with a loop instead of prusik cord? I am looking for a good friction hitch that will work with the nylon webbing I prefer for my footloop with Traditional Style

The distel cannot be tied with a loop unless the loop is doubled over and treated as a straight eye and eye sling.

I have used it quite a bit and I like it. For people just getting into advanced friction hitches, the distel is the best. Easy to tie and very reliable.

love
nick

Take a look at Spidey's page, there are illustrations and descriptions of lots of hitches.

http://www.mytreelessons.com/index.htm

I've been using a swivel dog leash or halter snap for a slack tender under my friction hitches. There's really no need to use the pulley, save the money for important gear. My favorite snap is one that has two jaws that open sideways like crab pincers. Be sure to get one large enough to let the rope slide. The eye of the snap will go between the two ends of the friction hitch cord.

When you make the step to advanced friction hitches be sure to get an HMS style biner for anchoring your hitch. Since you're going to be terminating, is it ok to use that word in a climbing discussion? ...its better to spread the load out a bit and keep the cords away from the gate.

Tom

I like the responsiveness of the Distel, but don't have enough experience with the other advanced hitches to make comparisons. It does respond more freely than the Blake's.

Tom, tell us more about the snap with two openable jaws--I've been looking for one, but can't seem to locate any. I wanted to use it for just what you mentioned: a slack tender.

Thanks!

Here are some pics of the pincer snap used as a slack tender.

This one shows the pincer hanging down. Make sure that you get one that is large enought to let your rope slide smoothly. The snap stays on the biner along with the taped end of the hitch cord.

Tom

Whew...that worked!

Now another...this is from the front like the climber would see.

This is from around the side/back.

Any swivel snap will work. The pincer style is my favorite. Next favorite is a snap with a spring gate like a biner. The least favorite is one with a where the gate slides down inside a sleeve. There is usually a thumb knob on the side. Those have a reputation for snagging on things and opening.

Jim,

I'm going to be in DC/Baltimore in the middle of next month. My folks and I are meeting to do a little siteseeing. Do you know of an inexpensive motel that is along the rail line? We're hoping to not have to rent a car. Taking the metro mostly and a cab if we need to in DC.

Tom
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Tom it looks like you would use this application for only SRT climbs. Is that correct, or are you using that hitch for your running end in a DdRT?
The Pix are a great help too. What length of prussik cord and diameter doe you use for 1/2' rope with this knot for DdRT climbing. and can the number of loops be altered for different apps?
Thanks For Great Feedback

The Distel, and most friciton hitches, would be used on your running end of DdRT. You can use it for SRT, but it will not react the same.

Typically, a friction hitch is tied with a cord of smaller diameter than the host/climbing line. You might use 5/16, 3/8, or 7/16 inch line for a half inch climbing line. This will vary with what hitch you are using.

Most friction hitch cords I see hover around 20"-30". The distel will be on the very short end of the scale because it doesn't take up too much rope.

Yes, you can most certainly vary the number of top and bottom wraps to fine-tune this knot. I usually use a 3/1 (3 over 1) like Tom showed in his photo. I know a lot of people prefer a 4/1.

Best of luck and welcome to the site!

love
nick

Nick beat me to the answers

I've been using the distel for DdRT and now I'm using the Knut. A little better action and a slack tender isn't required, does help a little though. On SRT the distel locks down too hard. Knut seems to have promise.

The cord that I'm using is from New England ropes. I can't recall the name, Bishop Company sells it. REally great stuff!

When ever you're trying out new setups, start low and slow, on the ground. Then, when you go into the tree, climb up a little and then reach down, tie a slipknot below your hitch. Continue climbing and tieing stopper knots as you go up. Just in case something goes pearshaped you won't take a grounder.

Go to Bishop Company:

http://www.bishco.com/

and search for "HRC" It's a bit more expensive than other hitch cords but the performance and durability make it a great value.

The snap that Tom references is a "Sail Snap" I believe. I used to use them alot to connect my gear to my bosuns seat when window washing.


I have come to really like the Distel, but I tend to only use it in trees where I know that I have small ascents between landing spots. The willow oaks that are so common in my area are great for that hitch. I can just start grabbing line hand over hand until I hit the first branch, usually less than 20'. Then there are several more short grabs to get to the TIP. Most times a climb in a tree like that has no hitch tending. When climbing in the wild though I like to stick to the traditional stuff, the little junk I've climbed through to get to the top wants to make the upper loops on the distel compress as I'm climbing, and that spooks me.

Climb Safe!
Icabod

Joe,
Check out this pdf from Dunlap's treebuzz site. I've found it has good info on several of the hitches discussed above.

http://www.treebuzz.com/pdf/climbing_hitches.pdf

This is the knot I have been using for maybe a year now.
I found later when I checked, I had mistied a Knut making the
half hitch on the other, leg shall we say- the one coming off the top of the coil. In addition there is an added a cross under just before that bottom half hitch.
So with one leg held stationary on the left I start by crossing
over the main line making four wraps counter clockwise as seen from the top.
Then down around and under the left leg, continuing around to finish with
a half hitch. (these wraps can vary in number)
I like going in the same direstion.
The Spliced eye piece from Sherrill is my favorite as it is so limber. I believe
it is ultra tech as it is rated at 7,800 pounds. It was some english measure that seems just a bit fatter than a 9-mm accessory cord.
There are such differences between the various accessory cords. I've
tried from 6-mm up to 10mm.
The slicker and stiffer, the more one has to pay attention to setting and dressing. especially pulling out the slack so the wraps contact the main rope.
With the Sherrill spliced piece on my safety blue, I've gotten pretty
zippy and casual , and it seems to work fine. This knot seems to free
up more easily than the Knut and has less play than the usual VT for me.
I would appreciate any feed back on anyone trying it. It self tends pretty
easily for me though occasionally I've used a quick link just under the bottom
to my tie in or butterfly loop. This is doubled rope technique. http://www.flickr.com/photos/yanoos/