Two unrelated questions

1) How do you tie off your anchor point for SRT? I have just wrapped it around a tree trunk few times and knotted it with a double-figure-eight, but this doesn't seem like the best method.

2) Would you ever open your locking carabiner while your load was on it at height? For example, to clip in to a new DRT TIP or to switch from ascenders to a grigri to descend. They are rated for open and closed weight, so I feel like it is ok. Given the shape of the biner and the fact that there is a load on it, it seems impossible for the rope to come out.

- Link

Originally posted by Link774
1) How do you tie off your anchor point for SRT? I have just wrapped it around a tree trunk few times and knotted it with a double-figure-eight, but this doesn't seem like the best method.

Typical method is to put an F8 on bight on the end of the rope, back it with a double overhand, wrap it around the trunk twice, overlap the wrap and then attach to the "up" rope with a 10mm delta screwlink. If you use biners, put 2 locking biners on and oppose the gates.

Originally posted by Link7742) Would you ever open your locking carabiner while your load was on it at height? For example, to clip in to a new DRT TIP or to switch from ascenders to a grigri to descend. They are rated for open and closed weight, so I feel like it is ok. Given the shape of the biner and the fact that there is a load on it, it seems impossible for the rope to come out.

No. Never. Absolutely not. Don't do it. The biner that you hang your life on should never be opened unless you've already transferred your weight to a another tie-in.

Whenever you switch from SRT to DdRT you should first set your DdRT TIP, test it, transfer your weight to it, then detach from the SRT system.

For switchover to descent or rappel from SRT ascent mode, lanyard into a branch as a backup for the switchover.
-moss

2 locking biners, eh? You guys really are quite serious about safety! That's great.

Regarding (2) that's what I thought. Safety first! Thanks moss! Good luck on your RI trip! I wish I could make it, but I'm looking at condos in Boston this weekend.

- Link

If I'm only using the rope, I'll tie a running bowline around the tree. Otherwise I'll hook another sling to the tree, then hook a biner, fig 8, gri-gri or other device to the sling, then hook the rope to that.

Regarding the 2nd question. Yes, I unclip my rope when I'm tied it to it all the time while I'm up in the tree....AS LONG AS I'M TIED IN SOMEWHERE ELSE, FIRST!!!!!

Stay tied in always no matter what.

love
nick

1) I always cinch the rope with a figure 8 knot and a 10mm mallion around the branch TIP. I don’t have it running over the branch and back to the base of the tree.

2) As nick has already said, "I unclip my rope when I'm tied it to it all the time while I'm up in the tree....AS LONG AS I'M TIED IN SOMEWHERE ELSE, FIRST!!!!! " I do the same.

One question I have to add to the thread, do you guys prefer to cinch the rope to the TIP up in the tree or run it over the branch and secure it to the base? Why?

Matt

Thanks Nick, I'll try that method too.

aussietreeclimber, thanks for the tips. I think the main benefit of the secure-to-base method is that you don't need to isolate the branch.

I'd still probably secure it to the base even if I could isolate the branch, though, since it seems a bit easier to retrieve. I guess cinching has the benefit of not doubling the load on the branch, though.

- Link

Tying off to the base gives you TIP backup if you capture other branches in the system.

Choke hitching at the top allows you to use one rope if you're traveling light. Once you get to the top of the rope use the other end of the rope for your DdRT tie-in. Assumes use of a hybrid arborist/static rope.

To answer Aussietreeclimber's question, I use both methods, depends on the tree structure and how much gear I'm carrying into the woods. Once you choke your rope to a branch you are committed to the climb. Unless you put a separate pulldown line on the hitch.
-moss

Another advantage of using a gri-gri or 8 when tied to the base of the tree is you can be rescue from the ground in the event you realize you cannot go any further for either bugs or animals.

Also if you cinch with a running bowline your are commited to climb to your tip. You might realize on the way up you would rather travel elsewhere and can can do so via another line and just leave your ascent line where it is and retrieve it from the ground.

Fair comments with regards to securing the rope to the base of the tree. I've just never tried it. Also the fact that i'm almost always solo, somthing that has an influence on my favoring of the TIP cinching onto the branch, no one's coming to my rescue in a hurry with rope knoweledge that i'd trust my life with. So i'd rather have the use both ends of my rope, or the full length. And its a good excuse while on the phone to the parentals "oh i HAVE to climb it now to get the rope back down"

One question Climber020: would you tie off to the base of the tree where other members of the non-treeclimbing public would be around? Do they get curious and eventually look up?
I'd just personally prefer the option to pull all my gear up for a nice quiet climb, even though i've never climbed near the public as yet.

Matt

When climbing in the public area I usually have at least a ground sitter to watch over myself and everything else going on. When I go solo, it is usally out in the wilderness where no one would bother going but hunters.
But like I said I am only on my ascent line for a minute or so, so I am not real worried about someone tampering with it. I back it up anyway, so the time it would take someone to untie the set-up and be able to open the 8 or gri-gri I can run up to my tip before anything can go wrong.