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Originally posted by Jim W
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“I've never seen the upper pulley move down in actual practice with this system.â€
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Again, I have to say that that is not the point. What we’re doing here (or, at least, what *I* am doing) is “following the science†to determine if this system is “in balance,†and, if it is not, what is the magnitude of the imbalance. Anecdotal incidents are not science.
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Only one F8 needs to be added on the left side of the system (just before) the CS to transfer the friction to cambium saver/bark. However this makes the system less easy to install from the ground (one of the main benefits of the system). Still can be done but it can be tough to pull a conduit sleeve over a crotch pulling on a throwline. It's not clear that the F8 is needed if all that happens in a less careful setup is that the upper pulley moves down.Originally posted by Link774
...they should be sure to use these figure eights. This will also eliminate the effect of various ropes, and just make it a matter of bark vs CS friction.
I climb frequently in the dark, not a big deal, I wanted to get a climb in and I always enjoy engaging a problem with direct experience and observation. It was frustrating climbing 3:1, so easy but so slow!Originally posted by Link774moss, thanks for testing the setup (in the dark!) you must be quite anxious to put the debate to rest.
That makes sense (some pulley movement down per pull) but I still think that the position of the upper screwlink (choke effect) is a major controlling variable for pulley creep rate.Originally posted by Link774Jim, the fact that moss's setup slipped somewhat but then stopped in evidence enough that the system once slipping won't necessarily continue to slip. I would venture that the slips occured when there was more than 2/3 of moss's weight on the RHS of the system, probably caused by pulling on the downrope to ascend. This caused the static friction to be overcome briefly, but once the initial jerk of moss's pull was complete, the kinetic friction caused it to go back to rest.
CorrectOriginally posted by Link774I think that if you had a figure eight before the CS, the system wouldn't have slipped at all.
Originally posted by Link774Hopefully somebody can see what kind of weight differential is required to cause a CS with figure eights on either side to move. Remember to keep the weight constant, so the friction stays the same. Once we figure that out, then I guess we just need to figure out the likelyhood of that differential ever occuring...
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Originally posted by Geof_K
One point I'm still unclear about is the benefit of using a delta or rapid link vs a carabiner. Can anyone explain that in a different way for me?
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